Fiery sunsets and moonlight cast a glow over a tower dating from the eighth century, which is central to the farmhouse-hotel complex. Stone buildings surround a peaceful geranium- and ivy-filled courtyard and a garden beyond. Standard rooms, some with views of the temples, are nothing fancy, with mellow walls and wooden furniture. The rustic restaurant, Il Dehors, serves extremely expensive foodie fare that is ambitious but only sometimes successful. The wine list is seemingly unrelated to what's in the cellar. The hotel, in the valley below the temples, is on an unmarked dirt road about 3 km (2 mi) southeast of the old town. Pros: Good location, serene environment. Cons: Service can be slipshod, restaurant is unreliable, generally overpriced.
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