Fiery sunsets and moonlight cast a glow over the ancient tower at the center of this farmhouse-hotel complex, in the valley below the temples. Stone buildings surround a peaceful geranium- and ivy-filled courtyard and the garden beyond. Standard rooms, some with views of the temples, are nothing fancy, with mellow walls and wooden furniture, and the rustic restaurant, Il Dehors, serves hit-or-miss foodie fare. The hotel is on an unmarked dirt road about 3 km (2 miles)
southeast of the old town.