These two gems of the coastline between Acireale and Catania -- the "Riviera Jonica" (Ionian Riviera) -- fill with city dwellers in the summer months, but even in colder weather their beauty is hard to fault. Heading south from Acireale on the coast-hugging litoranea road, you'll first reach Aci Trezza, said to be the land of the blind Cyclops in Homer's Odyssey. Legend has it that when the Cyclops threw boulders at Odysseus they became the faraglioni offshore. Aci Trezza is also famous as the setting for I Malavoglia, the 1881 novel by Giovanni Verga. It should be easy to satisfy your literal rather than literary hunger at Da Federico (Via Magrì 4, Aci Trezza. 095/276364. Closed Mon.), which lays out a sprawling antipasto buffet featuring delectable marinated anchovies and eggplant parmigiana, along with excellent grilled whole fish and sweet scampi (thin, delicate crustaceans). Less developed than Aci Trezza, Aci Castello has its own fish houses plus the imposing Castello Normanno (Norman Castle), which sits right on the water. The castle was built in the 11th century with volcanic rock from Mt. Etna -- the same rock that forms the coastal cliffs.
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