At the heart of Piazza del Duomo, which is closed to traffic, stands an elephant carved out of lava, balancing an Egyptian obelisk -- the city's informal mascot. The piazza shines from a 21st-century renovation. From here you can look way down the long, straight Via Garibaldi to see a black-and-white-striped fortress and entrance to the city, the Porta Garibaldi.
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