Palermitans drive the 45 minutes to savor modern and startling combinations in chef Nino Graziano's traditional country house -- probably Sicily's best restaurant. Macco (fava-bean puree), a staple of the rural poor, is playfully paired with scampi and finished with ricotta, speck (cured ham), peppercorns, and fried basil. Pistachios encrust a delicate pork fillet served with chocolate sauce, rice fritters, cinnamon applesauce, and swirls of raspberry. The wine list is excellent, and prices are reasonable -- even for the spectacular tasting menu. Look for Ristorante Graziano (formerly called Il Mulinazzo) on the right side of SS121, after a car dealership; the tiny sign is easy to miss.
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