Coming off the Autostrada at Roma Nord or Roma Sud, you know by the convergence of heavily trafficked routes that you are entering a grand nexus: All roads lead to Rome. And then the interminable suburbs, the railroad crossings, the intersections—no wonder they call it the Eternal City. As you enter the city proper, features that match your expectations begin to take shape: a bridge with heroic statues along its parapets; a towering cake of frothy marble decorated with allegorical figures in extravagant poses; a piazza and an obelisk under an umbrella of pine trees. Then you spot what looks like a multistory parking lot; with a gasp, you realize it's the Colosseum. With traffic encircling the great stone arena of the Roman emperors, the broad girdle of tarmac seems to still be a racetrack, as it must have been in charioteering days. Not surprisingly, the motorists behind the wheels of their Fiats seem to display the panache of so many Ben-Hurs. More »
