The modern, intimate dining room hints at what's to come from the kitchen and the staff: elegant and restrained cooking, friendly yet unobtrusive service, and an interesting and well-curated wine list. Whipped salt cod on citrus polenta is a light and airy affair, and moscardini (baby Mediterranean octopus) in a wine-and-tomato broth on crostini is also a great starter. Pastas, including thin tagliolini with crab, zucchini, and mandarin orange or fettucine with a lamb and porcini ragu, are creative. Main dishes range from land (Kobe-style beef with mushrooms and radicchio) to sea (cod with cabbage and spicy 'nduja sausage). This is a gem in a quiet neighborhood.