This classic Roman seafood spot is an old standard in the neighborhood, and renovations a few years ago spiffed it up and made the environs as elegant as the food. Fresh ingredients and simple preparations make this a great place for going for broke with a mixed antipasto of crudi, including delicious tartares, carpaccios, and the like. Or, pick fresh shellfish and mollusks to slurp down with some spumante, always the perfect accompaniment to light, bright seafood. Pastas
like a classic spaghetti con le vongole (white clam sauce) are expertly prepared, and main courses are inventive, like black cod cooked on a rock with pistachios and pink salt.