Almost a sister in spirit to the Hotel Aleph, a favorite of the design trendoisie across the street, Moma is modern, moody, and very "concept." The menu has hits and misses, and attempts to raise the nouvelle bar in Rome—foie gras millefoglie with apple slices and cider vinegar geleé, anyone? Seared scallops, plump and sweet, are a find, and the rigatoni all'amatriciana is tasty. Mains like lamb with spices and yogurt and a Jerusalem artichoke salad are flavorful twists on classics. There are several basic desserts, of which the molten chocolate cake is probably the best, served with pear sorbetto and chocolate sauce.