Casina Valadier. Every Hollywood movie filmed in Rome had a scene set here: a splendid pavilion in the Villa Borghese park, designed by the great neoclassical architect Giuseppe Valadier. "The most beautiful restaurant in Rome" finally underwent a major renovation in 2007, but with mixed results. The bar area and terrace are still delightful, but the setting (gorgeous, but even the refurbished interiors could use some upkeep) and magnificent view are not matched
by what the kitchen puts out, as quality is inconsistent. Fresh tagliatelle with capon, sweetbreads, and black truffle are truly delicious, but a seafood fregola (Sardinian couscous) is fishy. The wine list is surprisingly moderate on cost and offers nice variety. Piazza Bucarest, Villa Borghese, Rome, 00187. 06/69922090. www.casinavaladier.it. Reservations essential. Closed Mon. and 2 wks in Aug.
Piazza Bucarest, Rome, 00187, Italy