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Il Pagliaccio Review
To find some of the latest spins on Roman alta cucina (haute cuisine), you might be surprised to head to a hidden back street nestled between the upscale Via Giulia and the popular piazzas of Campo de' Fiori and Navona. But that is where widely traveled chef Anthony Genovese has come to roost, after garnering his first Michelin star at luxe and lavish Palazzo Sasso hotel on the Amalfi Coast. Born in France to Calabrese parents, and having worked in such far-flung places as Japan and Thailand, it's no surprise to note Genovese's love of unusual spices, "foreign" ingredients, and Eastern preparations. These have not only gained him a loyal following but more prized Michelin stars. As a result, prices here are fairly exorbitant, but dishes like pasta bundles filled with onion, tapioca, and red currants in a saffron broth; or duck with black salsify, caramelized pear, and chocolate sauce are well worth it. Desserts are also expertly executed as well, thanks to Alsatian Marion Lichtle. For the full Genovese feast, go for one of his tasting menus.
- Address: 129 Via dei Banchi Vecchi near Piazza Navona, Rome
- Phone: 06/68809595
- Location: Navona
- Reservations essential.
- Closed Sun. and Mon. and 3 wks in Aug. No lunch Tues.
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