Tullio. Just off Piazza Barberini sits this Tuscan-accented upscale trattoria. The decor is basic wood paneling and white linens, with the requisite older—and often grumpy—waiters. The menu is heavy on Tuscan classics such as white beans and the famed bistecca alla fiorentina, a carnivore's dream. Meat dishes other than beef, such as lamb and veal, are also dependably good. The homemade pappardelle al cinghiale (wide, flat noodles in a wild boar
sauce) are delectable. A few key Roman dishes and greens are offered, like brocoletti, sauteéd to perfection with garlic and olive oil. The wine list favors robust Tuscan reds and thick wallets. Via San Nicola da Tolentino 26, Quirinale, Rome, 00175. 06/4745560. www.tullioristorante.it. Reservations essential. Closed Sun. and Aug. Barberini–Fontana di Trevi.