The entrance on a narrow side street leads upstairs to the main dining room of this neighborhood favorite where those in the know can enjoy dining on classic Roman fare under arched ceilings. Fried zucchini flowers, battered salt cod, and gnocchi are all consistently good, as are some nice, historic touches, like a beef-and-citron stew from an ancient Roman recipe of Apicius. If the porchetta (roasted suckling pig) is on the menu, order it immediately. Back in 2004,
there was a terrible fire in a shop below the restaurant, but the kitchen was soon back in business, though the irony here is as thick as the chef's tomato sauce: Al Pompiere means "the fireman."