In a tiny, nondescript alley north of Piazza Navona, the three Troiani brothers—Angelo in the kitchen, and brothers Giuseppe and Massimo presiding over the dining room and wine cellar—have quietly been redefining the experience of Italian eclectic alta cucina (haute cuisine) for many years. Antipasti include a selection of ultra-fresh raw seafood preparations in the mixed crudi, while a "carbomare" pasta is a riff on tradition, substituting pancetta with
fresh fish roe and house-cured bottarga (salted fish roe). Or opt for one of the famed signature dishes, including a fabulous version of a cold-weather pigeon main course. Service is attentive without being overbearing, and the wine list is exceptional.