Nowhere else do the lingering rays of the setting Roman sun seem more inviting than within the famed tavern garden of this charming Trastevere haunt—right by the arch of Porta Settimiana, this was reputedly the onetime home of Raphael's lady love, La Fornarina. And though belly-warming winter meals can be enjoyed in the ancient palazzo, it's the outdoor garden seating that makes this a truly coveted dining spot in the summer months. Who can resist classic spaghetti alla
carbonara or pasta all'amatriciana in these surroundings? House specialties include the mozzarella alla fornarina (deep-fried mozzarella with ham and anchovies) and anything with the chef's legendary artichoke sauce.