Acquolina. Chef-proprietor of Il Convivio Angelo Troiani has branched out, heading out of the city center to the Flaminio area, and specializing here in high-quality seafood. He tapped chef Giulio Terrinoni to head the kitchen, and the results are delicious and understated, with some dishes reflecting the time-honored Italian tradition of letting great seafood speak for itself. The crudo is ultra-fresh, and pastas like the seafood carbonara and the cacio e pepe
(cheese and pepper) with skate and zucchini flowers are upscale aquatic riffs on Roman classics. Main dishes range from fish stew to gran fritto misto (deep-fried seafood platter). Desserts are surprisingly sophisticated. Service is helpful and thorough, but beware of the sometimes slow kitchen. Via Antonio Serra 60, Flaminio, Rome, 00191. 06/3337192. www.acquolinahostaria.it. Closed Sun. No lunch.