Acquolina

Acquolina Review

Famed chef Angelo Troiani, chef-proprietor of Il Convivio, has branched out, heading out of the city center to the Flaminio area, while narrowing his culinary scope to concentrate on high-quality seafood. The results are delicious and understated: some dishes on the menu reflect the time-honored Italian tradition of letting great seafood speak for itself, and other dishes get spiffed-up treatments. The aquatic version of olive ascolane are battered and fried as tradition dictates, but are stuffed with salt cod instead of the usual ground meat. And the seafood lasagna is more of a composed pasta Napoleon, with paper-thin pasta, delicate white fish, sea urchin, and deliciously light saucing. The owners are concerned about sustainability, and as such, don't serve certain endangered sea creatures, so don't expect to find bluefin tuna carpaccio on the menu. Desserts are surprisingly sophisticated. Service is helpful and thorough, though this barely makes up for the slowness of the kitchen.