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Famed chef Angelo Troiani, chef-proprietor of Il Convivio, has branched out, heading out of the city center to the Flaminio area, and also branched out by now specializing in high-quality seafood. He tapped chef Giulio Terrinoni to head the kitchen, and the results are delicious and understated, with some dishes reflecting the time-honored Italian tradition of letting great seafood speak for itself while others get spiffed-up treatments. The crudo is ultra-fresh, and pastas like the seafood carbonara and the cacio e pepe with skate and zucchini flowers are upscale aquatic riffs on Roman classics. Main dishes range from fish stew to a gran fritto misto. The owners are concerned about sustainability, and as such, don't serve certain endangered sea creatures (like bluefin tuna carpaccio). Desserts are surprisingly sophisticated. Service is helpful and thorough, which helps to make up for the sometimes slow kitchen.
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