The name refers to its proximity to the tram tracks, but could also describe its size, as it's narrow-narrow and often stuffed to the rafters-rafters (in warmer weather, happily, there's a "side car" of tables enclosed along the sidewalk). The cuisine is mostly rooted in Puglia, with an emphasis on seafood and vegetables—maybe prawns with saffron-kissed sautéed vegetables—as well as pastas of very particular shapes. Try the homemade orecchiette, ear-shaped
pasta, made here with clams and broccoli. Meats tend toward traditional Roman offerings.