This bustling trattoria is usually snugly packed with hungry Romans. The name refers to its proximity to the tram tracks, but could also describe its size, as it's narrow-narrow and often stuffed to the rafters-rafters. In warmer weather, there's a "side car" of tables enclosed along the sidewalk. The focus of the food is the cook's hometown region of Puglia. You'll find an emphasis on seafood and vegetables—maybe prawns with saffron-kissed sautéed vegetables—as well as pastas of very particular shapes. Fish is a good bet here; try the homemade orecchiette, ear-shaped pasta, made here with clams and broccoli.
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