For decades, everyone made a pilgrimage to the city suburbs and the Cavalieri Hilton, perched high atop Monte Mari, to feast on the creations of Heinz Beck, "the best chef in Rome." These days, of course, he has some serious competition, but the effort to get out here is still richly rewarded. The setting is grand: La Pergola's rooftop setting offers a commanding view of the city; trompe-l'oeil ceilings and handsome wood paneling combine with low lighting to create an intimate atmosphere; the quality of the table settings lets you know you're being fussed over. Once seated in your plush chairs (of which there are only 60, so reservations are recommended well in advance), one of your many waiters will present you with menus -- food, wine, and water (you read correctly). The German Wunder-chef's alta cucina still means great haute cuisine -- this may be the only restaurant in Rome to charge 35 euros for a tomato salad, but most everything will prove to be the best version of the dish you've ever tasted. Lobster is oh-so-lightly poached, and melt-in-your-mouth lamb in a veggie-accented jus is deceptively simple but earthy and perfect. Ditto the scallops served with black truffle, each coin-sized mollusk and truffle thinly sliced and meticulously fanned across the plate. Each course comes with a flourish of sauces or extra touches that makes it an event in its own right, while the cheese cart is well-explained by knowledgeable servers. And the dessert course is extravagant, including tiny petits-fours and treats tucked away in small drawers that make up the serving "cabinet." The wine list is as thrilling as one might expect with the financial backing of the Hilton and their investment in one of the top wine cellars in Italy; still, markup is steep so choose wisely.

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