Al Ceppo. The well-heeled, the business-minded, and those of more refined palate frequent this outpost of tranquillity. Its owners hail from Le Marche, the region northeast of Rome that encompasses inland mountains and the Adriatic coastline. These ladies dote on their customers as you'd wish a sophisticated Italian mamma would. There's always a selection of dishes from their native region, such as olive ascolane (green olives stuffed with ground meat,
breaded, and fried), fresh pasta dishes, succulent roast lamb, and a delicious marchigiano-style rabbit. Other temptations include a beautiful display of seafood and a wide selection of meats ready to be grilled in the fireplace in the front room. Via Panama 2, Villa Borghese, Rome, 00198. 06/8419696. www.ristorantealceppo.it. Reservations essential. Closed Mon. and 2 wks in Aug.