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The four pillars around which the structure is built are ancient Roman, but when you walk through the 16th-century door, it's clear that Boccondivino ("divine mouthful") is all about the here-and-now, with the animal-print chairs and glass-fronted dining room. The outdoor seating in the intimate piazzetta out front is a great summer spot. This is also the perfect place for a dinner date. Start, perhaps, with a smoked swordfish served with peppery Roman arugula, candied citrus, and parmigiano cheese, then move on to (or split) the delicious pasta with pesto, shrimp, and cherry tomatoes. Then go for a secondo—like the perennial sliced beef tagliata with veggies and balsamic, or southern Italian pezzogna fish (like a plump snapper) in acqua pazza—a fish broth seasoned with tomato and a pinch of spicy chile pepper. Kudos for offering a bit more variety in the dessert category beyond the same-old Italian standards.
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