The structure is built around ancient Roman pillars but when you walk through the 16th-century door, it's clear that Boccondivino ("divine mouthful") is of the moment, with animal-print chairs and a glass-fronted dining room. The outdoor seating in the intimate piazzetta out front is a great summer spot. Start, perhaps, with a smoked swordfish served with peppery Roman arugula, candied citrus, and parmigiano cheese, then move on to a delicious pasta with pesto, shrimp,
and cherry tomatoes. For a secondo, try the southern Italian pezzogna (like a plump snapper fish) in acqua pazza—a fish broth seasoned with tomato and a pinch of chili pepper.