Duke's. It dubs itself a California-style restaurant and bar, although the California rolls contain tuna and carrot and they've added mint leaves to the Caesar salad. Truth be told, after a stretch of Italian-only bingeing, you may actually want the entire menu. Perhaps a nice, juicy beef fillet, and the finishing touch of a warm apple pie served with gelato. The decor is Malibu beach house, with a patio out back: consummately SoCal chic. Up front, opening
out onto the street, the beautiful people from the neighborhood (read: plenty of unnatural blondes) gather at the bar, sipping frozen cocktails, the whir of blenders and music blaring in the background. Viale Parioli 200, Villa Borghese, Rome, 00198. 06/80662455. www.dukes.it. Reservations essential. June–Sept. closed weekends; Sept.–May closed Sun. and Mon.; Closed 2 wks in Aug. No lunch.