Of all of the city's neighborhoods, finding a new place in the winding backstreets of the old Jewish Ghetto can feel the most rewarding, as it gives the immediate sensation of discovering a hidden secret. This latest venture, from the people behind Taverna degli Amici across the piazza, shares a lot of the same menu items as its parent restaurant: artichokes, classic pastas, well-executed standard Roman secondi. But the emphasis here is on the wine, representing most of Italy's 20 regions, with some hard-to-find labels. The dining room is cozy, and the enoteca and wine bar up front are adorably nuovo rustic.
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