Standing inconspicuously in a corner of the vast Piazza del Popolo, this church often goes unnoticed, but the treasures inside make it a must for art lovers, as they include an entire chapel designed by Raphael and one adorned with striking Caravaggio masterpieces. Bramante enlarged the apse of the church, which had been rebuilt in the 15th century on the site of a much older place of worship. Inside, in the first chapel on the right, you'll see some frescoes by Pinturicchio from the mid-15th century; the adjacent Cybo Chapel is a 17th-century exercise in marble decoration. Heading to the second chapel on the left, you'll see Raphael's famous Chigi Chapel, built around 1513 and commissioned by the banker Agostino Chigi (who also had the artist decorate his home across the Tiber, the Villa Farnesina). Raphael provided the cartoons for the vault mosaic -- showing God the Father in benediction -- and the designs for the statues of Jonah and Elijah in the Chigi Chapel. More than a century later, Bernini added the oval medallions on the tombs and the statues of Daniel and Habakkuk, when, in the mid-17th century another Chigi, Pope Alexander VII, commissioned him to restore and decorate the building.

The organ case of Bernini in the right transept bears the Della Rovere family oak tree, part of the Chigi family's coat of arms. The choir, with vault frescoes by Pinturicchio, contains the handsome tombs of Ascanio Sforza and Girolamo delle Rovere, both designed by Andrea Sansovino. The best is for last: The Cerasi Chapel, to the left of the high altar on the side walls, has two Caravaggios, both key early-Baroque works that show how modern 17th-century art can be. Compare their earthy realism and harshly dramatic lighting with the much more restrained and classically "pure" Assumption of the Virgin by Caravaggio's contemporary and rival, Annibale Carracci; it hangs over the altar of the chapel.

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