At this restaurant on the less-traveled side of Viale Trastevere, diners can enjoy an evening of historical and culinary interest. The restaurant was rebuilt on the site of a 12th-century Jewish synagogue, so the spot is rich with history—several ancient sculptures, now in the Vatican and Capitoline museums, were unearthed in the basement. The food ranges from inventive (marinated duck salad with grapes, walnuts, and pomegranate seeds) to traditional (spaghetti with
pecorino and pepper), to historical (braised pork shoulder with apples and leeks, an ancient Roman recipe). The proud owner is happy to explain every dish on the menu, and offers a postdinner tour of the wine cellar—and that basement.