You can get regular osteria fare and service at this member of the 'Gusto restaurant empire, but why would you? The beauty of this spot is what makes it different: its adaptation of the idea of cichetti, a sort of Italian tapas that originated in the venerable bars of Venice. Head to the bar area here (the only place this service is available) and, for between two and four euros, sample pretty much anything on the regular menu in a snack-size portion. Many will want to begin by choosing from the incredible selection of 400 cheeses in the basement cellar, then from the various fritti (fried items), moving onto pastas such as sheep's milk and pepper spaghetti. Even enjoy mini desserts: the portions make you feel as if you're behaving!
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