The name is a reference to the right bank of the Tiber river—which in Rome encompasses Trastevere, Rome's version of Paris's historic "Left Bank" of bohemians and intellectuals. Here, Rivadestra stands out among the old-school Roman eateries and amber-lit bars; walking through the heavy doors of the entrance is like walking into an oasis. The backlit bar and candelabras create a warm glow, and the service is quite welcoming. The streamlined menu offers starters like a pumpkin flan or eggplant stewed with olive oil and herbs, but better to head straight for well-executed primi, like the gramigna pasta with a sea bass and zucchini ragù with shrimp. Main dishes included a delicate sea bass in a potato crust, and seared tuna steak with a pepper compote. Finish off with a molten chocolate cake or a cheese plate paired with their extensive list of digestivi. You won't leave overly stuffed, but you will leave happily content.