At the most upscale wine bar in town you come for the wine, but return for the food. Everything here is appropriately raffinato (refined): marinated and smoked fish, composed salads, and top-quality salumi and other cured meats and pâtés. There are plenty of dishes with classic Roman leanings, including artichokes prepared three ways. Main courses favor meat, as in roast lamb, a fillet with foie gras, or game (like pigeon, in season), and complement the vast offering of top-notch red wines. The restaurant boasts 80 assorted cheeses to savor with your dessert wine.