Light, bright, and happy: that's the setting for this restaurant in a pretty piazza down the street from the Pantheon. Start with a nice wine from the well-stocked cellar and you're off, with inventive starters like the polpetti di brasato (slow-cooked braised beef made into breaded meatballs topped with a zingy green sauce). The first courses really shine, mingling meat, seafood, and vegetables with aplomb (the gnocchi with clams and sea beans is fresh and delicious). Second courses are simpler, including tuna steak with caponata and roast chicken. Desserts are tasty and the setting calls for dessert wines and post-prandial digestivi.