Rome Restaurants

In Rome, the Eternal(ly culinarily conservative) City, simple yet traditional cuisine reigns supreme. Most chefs prefer to follow the mantra of freshness over fuss, and simplicity of flavor and preparation over complex cooking techniques.

Rome has been known since antiquity for its grand feasts and banquets, and dining out has alway been a favorite Roman pastime. Until recently, the city's buongustaii (gourmands) would have been the first to tell you that Rome is distinguished more by its enthusiasm for eating out than for a multitude of world-class restaurants—but this is changing. There is an ever-growing promotion of slow-food practices, a focus on sustainably and locally sourced produce. The economic crisis has forced the food industry in Rome to adopt innovative ways to maintain a clientele who are increasingly looking to dine out but want to spend less. The result has been the rise of "street food" restaurants, selling everything from inexpensive and novel takes on the classic supplì (Roman fried-rice balls) to sandwich shops that use a variety of organic ingredients.

Generally speaking, Romans like Roman food, and that’s what you’ll find in many of the city’s trattorias and wine bars. For the most part, today’s chefs cling to the traditional and excel at what has taken hundreds, sometimes thousands, of years to perfect. This is why the basic trattoria menu is more or less the same wherever you go. And it's why even the top Roman chefs feature their versions of simple trattoria classics like carbonara, and why those who attempt to offer it in a "deconstructed" or slightly varied way will often come under criticism. To a great extent, Rome is still a town where the Italian equivalent of "What are you in the mood for?" still gets the answer, "Pizza or pasta."

Nevertheless, Rome is the capital of Italy, and because people move here from every corner of the Italian peninsula, there are more variations on the Italian theme in Rome than you'd find elsewhere in Italy: Sicilian, Tuscan, Pugliese, Bolognese, Marchegiano, Sardinian, and northern Italian regional cuisines are all represented. And reflecting the increasingly cosmopolitan nature of the city, you'll find a growing number of good-quality international foods here as well—particularly Japanese, Indian, and Ethiopian.

Oddly enough, though, for a nation that prides itself on la bella figura ("looking good"), most Romans don't fuss about music, personal space, lighting, or decor. After all, who needs flashy interior design when so much of Roman life takes place outdoors, when dining alfresco in Rome can take place in the middle of a glorious ancient site or a centuries-old piazza?

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  • 1. Fatamorgana

    $ | Monti

    A short walk from the Roman Forum, this small Roman chain serves excellent gelato, including familiar favorites and adventurous flavors such as Gorgonzola, olive, and tobacco. A bench outside offers relief after a day of walking.

    Piazza degli Zingari 5, Rome, Latium, Italy
    06-48906855
  • 2. Biscottificio Innocenti

    $ | Trastevere

    The scent of cookies wafts out into the street as you approach this family-run bakery, where a small team makes sweet treats the old-school way in a massive oven bought in the 1960s. There are dozens of varieties of baked goods, mostly sweet but some savory. Try the brutti ma buoni and anything made with almond paste or covered in chocolate.

    Via della Luce 21, Rome, Latium, 00153, Italy
    06-5803926

    Known For

    • Old-school family-run bakery
    • Dozens of varieties of baked goods
    • Brutti ma buoni ("ugly but good") cookies

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed 2 wks in Aug.
  • 3. Biscottificio Innocenti

    $ | Trastevere

    People from all over Rome come to this family-run bakery that's been turning out delicious desserts since 1920. Try the brutti ma buoni ("ugly but good") almond cookies or anything with chocolate or jam. Stefania runs the place with her daughters, Michela and Manuela, and says her fondest memories of the bakery are from when she was a child, watching her father operate the 1950s oven, still in use today.

    Via della Luce 21, Rome, Latium, 00153, Italy
    06-5803926

    Known For

    • Torta Sacher
    • Savory snacks for an on-the-go bite
    • Light-as-air profiteroles

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed mid-July–Aug., and Sun. in early July and Sept.
  • 4. Da Ivo

    $$ | Trastevere

    This always crowded pizzeria opens early and closes late, and in between it's packed with locals, tourists, and sports fans who know they can watch the Roma soccer team play on big, flat-screen TVs. The selection of pizzas is large, with delicious mains available as well. The coveted street-side tables are a great spot from which to view Trastevere's people parade. The service can be slow, so don't go for a quick meal.

    Via di San Francesco a Ripa 158, Rome, Latium, 00153, Italy
    06-5817082

    Known For

    • Mixed-vegetables pizza
    • Sports-friendly atmosphere
    • Long, leisurely meals

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Tues. and 2 wks in Jan. No lunch.
  • 5. Da Lucia

    $ | Trastevere

    There's no shortage of old-school trattorias in Trastevere, but this one has a strong following. Both locals and expats enjoy the brusque but "authentic" service and the hearty Roman fare; snag a table outside in warm weather for the true Roman experience of cobblestone-terrace dining.

    Vicolo del Mattonato 2, Rome, Latium, 00153, Italy
    06-5803601

    Known For

    • Bombolotti (a tubular pasta) all'amatriciana
    • Spaghetti cacio e pepe
    • Involtini (beef rolls)

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon., Tues., and Aug. No lunch Wed.–Sat.
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  • 6. Dar Poeta

    $ | Trastevere

    Romans drive across town for great pizza from this neighborhood institution, which offers both thin-crust and thick-crust (alta) Neapolitan-style pies with any of the given toppings. It doesn't accept reservations, so arrive early or late, or expect to wait in line. Service from the owners and friendly waitstaff is smile-inducing. For food on the go, a smaller location on Via della Scala sells pizza by the slice.

    Vicolo del Bologna 45, Rome, Latium, 00153, Italy
    06-5880516

    Known For

    • "superformaggio" (i.e., cheese lover's) pizza
    • Dessert calzone with Nutella and ricotta cheese
    • Friendly service

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Reservations not accepted
  • 7. Gelateria Venchi

    $ | Piazza di Spagna

    Established in 1878, Venchi is one of Italy's premier confectioners, and you'll see the brand all over the country. At this brick-and-mortar shop, you can buy chocolate as well as gelato, made fresh daily. The nougat and caramel flavors are fabulous, and, of course, there are several chocolate variations, but the real crowd-pleaser is the fountain of melted chocolate that takes up the entire wall behind the counter. There's a second location on Via della Croce, but this branch is more impressive.

    Via del Corso 335, Rome, Latium, 00187, Italy
    06-69797790

    Known For

    • Free-flowing melted chocolate
    • Creamy gelato flavors
    • Packaged candies
  • 8. Il Gelato di San Crispino

    $ | Piazza di Spagna

    Many people say this place—which is around the corner from the Trevi Fountain and had a cameo in the movie Eat, Pray, Love—serves the best gelato in Rome. Creative flavors like black fig, chocolate rum, Armagnac, and ginger-cinnamon all incorporate top-notch ingredients, and the shop is known for keeping its gelato hidden under metal covers to better preserve the quality. 

    Via della Panetteria 42, Rome, Latium, 00183, Italy
    06-69489518

    Known For

    • Seasonal fruit flavors
    • Offering only cups and no cones
    • Wine-based gelato
  • 9. La Renella

    $ | Trastevere

    This no-frills pizzeria al taglio (by the slice) and bakery is hidden a few minutes away from Piazza Trilussa. As in many traditional bakeries, pizza is sold by weight, so get yours sliced to the size you want. In the mornings, the pastries hot out of the oven are equally enticing.

    Via del Moro 15, Rome, Latium, 00153, Italy
    06-5817265

    Known For

    • Classic Roman pizza from a wood-fired oven
    • No additives or animal fats
    • Homemade breads and sweets
  • 10. La Torricella

    $$ | Testaccio

    This family-run institution has been serving seafood in the working-class Testaccio neighborhood for more than 40 years, and if you visit the local market early enough you might spot the owner selecting the freshest fish, which mainly arrives from Gaeta, south of Rome. The menu changes every day, but look for house specialties like paccheri (a very large, tubular pasta) with totani (baby calamari), pasta with telline (small clams), or the wondrously simple spaghetti with lobster. Start with appetizers from the cart that the waiter can wheel over to the table, or opt for the excellent moscardini fritti (fried, small squid). Although the menu has non-seafood Roman classics like cacio e pepe and pajata (intestines of an unweaned calf), this really is the place to order fish.

    Via Evangelista Torricelli 2/12, Rome, Latium, Italy
    06-5746311

    Known For

    • Fresh, local seafood
    • Relaxed but refined setting with outdoor seating
    • Polpette di pesce al sugo (fish balls in tomato sauce)

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon.
  • 11. Osteria der Belli

    $$ | Trastevere

    You might overlook Osteria der Belli because of its proximity to the central square of Trastevere, Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere—and that would be a crying shame. Leo, the owner, is Sardinian and has been running this place daily for over 35 years, and, while Roman dishes are on the menu, it excels at seafood and Sardinian cuisine. Between the friendly service and quality food, this one's a real find in an otherwise-touristy part of Trastevere.

    Piazza di Sant’Apollonia 11, Rome, Latium, 00153, Italy
    06-5803782

    Known For

    • Sea bass carpaccio
    • Ravioli or fettuccine alla sarda (in a creamy mushroom sauce)
    • Large outdoor patio

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon. and 3 wks in Jan.
  • 12. Otaleg!

    $ | Trastevere

    A slow wander through town for a scoop of gelato after lunch or dinner is a summer sport in Rome. Galley-sized Otaleg is a must in Trastevere, where gelato master Marco Radicioni dreams up concoctions like croccante totale (completely crunchy) with fiordilatte, toasted nuts, sesame, and honey, as well as perfectly distilled seasonal fruit sorbets made with produce from the nearby open-air market in Piazza San Cosimato.

    Via di San Cosimato, 14a, Rome, Latium, 00153, Italy
    338-6515450

    Known For

    • Neighborhood go-to
    • Creative flavors
    • High-quality ingredients
  • 13. Panella

    $ | Esquilino

    Opened in 1929, this bakery sells both sweet and savory items, including more than 70 types of bread. Line up for the pizza al taglio (by the slice) at lunchtime, or sit down at one of the outdoor tables for a cappuccino and cornetto or an aperitivo replete with mini sandwiches made on homemade buns. There's also a small location inside Termini Station where you can grab a quick espresso on the way to catch a train. 

    Via Merulana 54, Rome, Latium, 00185, Italy
    06-4872435

    Known For

    • One of Rome's best bakeries
    • Crostata, tartlets, and other sweet treats
    • Espresso with zabaione
  • 14. Pizzeria Ai Marmi

    $ | Trastevere

    This place is packed pretty much every night with diners munching on crisp pizzas that come out of the wood-burning ovens at top speed. It's best not to go during peak dining hours, so go early or late if you don't want to wait. Fortunately there's lots of great nightlife in the area so you can make a whole evening of it.

    Viale Trastevere 53, Rome, Latium, 00153, Italy
    06-5800919

    Known For

    • Excellent wood-oven pizzas
    • Fried starters such as supplì (breaded fried rice balls)
    • Open until midnight for a late-night bite

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Wed. and 3 wks in Aug.
  • 15. Supplì Roma

    $ | Trastevere

    Trastevere's best supplì (Roman-style rice croquettes) have been served at this hole-in-the-wall takeout spot since 1979. At lunchtime, the line spills out onto the street with locals who've come for the namesake treats, as well as fried baccalà fillets and stuffed zucchini flowers. The thin-crust pizza al taglio is baked the old-fashioned way—in low-rise rectangular pans—and the marinara version is a must. A few daily pasta specials are available, too.

    Via di San Francesco a Ripa 137, Rome, Latium, 00153, Italy
    06-5897110

    Known For

    • Old-fashioned baked pizza with spicy marinara sauce
    • Gnocchi on Thursday (the traditional day for it in Rome)
    • Classic fried risotto ball with ragù or cacio e pepe

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. and 2 wks in Aug.
  • 16. Tiberino

    $$ | Trastevere

    Named for the island that it sits on in the middle of the Tiber River, Tiberino is a historic café that has gotten a modern makeover. In the morning, stop in for a pastry topped with slivered almonds or a savory panino with mortadella and arugula. The coffee bar has also expanded into a restaurant for those who want a hot meal rather than a snack on-the-go. By the afternoon, the gelateria does brisk business selling scoops to visitors passing over the bridge (which happens to be Rome's oldest) linking Trastevere to the Jewish Ghetto. 

    Via di Ponte Quattro Capi, 18, Rome, Latium, 00186, Italy
    06-6877662

    Known For

    • Shady outdoor seating
    • Unique setting in the center of Rome's only island
    • Freshly squeezed seasonal juice

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner Sun.–Wed.
  • 17. Trapizzino

    $ | Testaccio

    Stefano Callegari is one of Rome's most famous pizza makers, but at Trapizzino he's doing something a bit different. The name of the restaurant is derived from the Italian words for sandwich (tramezzino) and pizza, and the result is something like an upscale pizza pocket, stuffed on the spot with local specialties like chicken alla cacciatore, or trippa (tripe), or roast pumpkin, pecorino, and almonds. The supplì (fried risotto balls) are also delicious.

    Via Giovanni Branca 88, Rome, Latium, 00153, Italy
    06-43419624

    Known For

    • Casual setting, with seating available next door
    • Eggplant parmigiana and meatball sandwiches
    • Italian craft beer

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed 1 wk in Aug.

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