Monti was the Roman neighborhood of Suburra, where the plebs of ancient Rome lived in dark tenements, with a high wall between their mean streets and the glories of the Imperial Fora. The neighborhood has a workaday, pleasant part along Via Panisperna and Via dei Serpenti, streets that follow the declivity of the Esquilino (Esquiline Hill) and are lined with offbeat shops and little restaurants. Artistic treasures appear in out-of-the-way corners. The great basilicas of Santa Maria Maggiore and San Giovanni in Laterano loom at the end of the broad avenues laid out centuries ago by the popes to make the pilgrims' way through Rome a little easier.
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