Eating Well in Rome

Eating Well in Rome

Roman cooking is simple, rustic cuisine, perfected over centuries. Dishes rarely have more than a few ingredients, and meat and fish are most often roasted, baked, or grilled. The best meat is often abbacchio (milk-fed lamb) -- legs are usually roasted with rosemary and potatoes, and chops served alla scottadito (literally "burn your finger" -- hot off the grill). Most Mediterranean fish are light yet flavorful, among them spigola (the Roman name for sea bass, more commonly called branzino elsewhere), orata (gilthead bream), and rombo (turbot). Romans swoon for batter-fried baccalà (cod).

The quintessential Roman pasta dishes are made with guanciale (cured pork cheek) and pecorino Romano cheese. All'amatriciana adds onion and tomato to the mix and is classically served with bucatini (a thick, hollow spaghetti); alla carbonara tosses the pork and cheese with egg yolk and black pepper; and alla gricia is amatriciana without tomatoes. Potato gnocchi with a tomato sauce and Parmesan or pecorino is a favorite for Thursday dinner.

Seasonal vegetables may not appear on the menu but are usually available. Romans love their greens -- cicoria and spinaci ripassati (sautéed chicory and spinach) are perennial favorites -- and many restaurants specialize in vegetable fritto misto (literally "mixed fried"). Rome is famous for carciofi (artichokes) -- available from November to April -- prepared alla romana (stuffed with garlic and mint and braised) or alla giudia (fried whole, making each petal crisp). A springtime treat is vignarola, a mixture of tender peas, fava beans, artichokes, and guanciale.

Typical wines of Rome are from the Castelli Romani, the towns in the hills to the southeast: Frascati, Colli Albani, Marino, and Velletri. Though Roman tap water is the best in Italy, restaurants usually offer bottled water, either gassata or frizzante (sparkling) or liscia (still).

It was not so long ago that wine in Rome (and other towns) was strictly local; you didn't have to walk far to find an osteria, a tavernlike establishment where you could buy wine straight from the barrel or sit down to drink and nibble a bit, chat, or play cards. The tradition continues today, as many Roman wineshops are also open as enoteche (wine bars). Most have done away with the folding chairs and rickety tables in favor of designer interiors, chic ambience, and excellent menus. Shelves are lined with hundreds of bottles from all over the country, representing the best in Italian wine making, and many selections are available by the glass. Behind the bar you'll usually find a sommelier or at least a serious wine enthusiast.