Gateway to the Aventino area is the evocative Piazza Bocca della Verità, where three enormously appealing monuments sit shoulder to shoulder: two ancient dollhouse-size Roman temples, the Temple of Fortuna Virilis and the circular Temple of Vesta, both shadowed by the soaring campanile of Santa Maria in Cosmedin, a Romanesque masterpiece and candidate for the city's most poetic church (its portico shelters the famous Roman "Mouth of Truth" that once so scared Audrey Hepburn in Roman Holiday). Moving south, you begin to climb the Aventino, one of Rome's seven hills, now an upscale residential neighborhood lush with private gardens, several early churches -- notably, the medieval San Saba and the stirringly handsome early Christian Santa Sabina.
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