If cave dwelling is not your style, an elegant former aristocratic residence in the Duomo piazza will certainly appeal. Lovingly restored by owner Margherita Arena, the Viceconte's rooms are all individual and a showcase for oil paintings, antiques, and high-vaulted frescoed ceilings. The best suite even has a panoramic-view bathroom in an alcove, where you can sit in the tub and gaze out over the surrounding grotto-pitted valley beyond the Sassi. From the hotel, it is
a short walk both to the central Piazza Vittorio Veneto and down into the Sassi labyrinth.