It's hard to say what's more surprising about this inn and restaurant: its improbable location in Castrovillari, or the fact that it's been here since 1952. Chef Gaetano Alia's menu swerves from the unique (beef with a delicious strawberry-and-onion sauce) to the dangerously spicy (candele, like rigatoni without the ridges, in a pecorino-cheese sauce). If you like it so much you want to stay, more than a dozen guest rooms are available. Surrounded by plenty of greenery,
they're decorated in bright colors with frescoes from local artists. Rounding off the experience in summer months is a small but enticing swimming pool.