The waves lap at the shore just inches from your table at this elegant but unpretentious coastal restaurant. In winter sit inside in front of a cozy fire. You have to follow a narrow twisting lane to get to this surprising little trattoria but the effort is worth it. The memorable assorted raw seafood antipasto includes some shellfish you might not find anywhere else. Cozze pelose (a local mussel), hiding inside spiked-hair shells, are briny and buttery; tiny noci
shellfish have a wonderful sweetness; and big, rich local oysters are all about texture. Try sweet grilled scampi with oil and lemon, and accompany it with one of the great white wines on the extensive list. If you find it hard to leave, you can stay the night in one of the simple, inexpensive chalets in the garden.