You'd never guess from the modern exterior that this is the oldest of Naples's great seafront hotels—the place where Enrico Caruso died, Oscar Wilde escaped with lover Lord Alfred Douglas, and Bill Clinton charmed the waitresses. Fortunately, the spacious, soothing interior compensates for what's lacking on the outside. Guest rooms are done in luxurious, traditional style with antique accents, vibrantly colored walls, and gleaming bathrooms. The best ones overlook the bay. You can pamper yourself at the spa, where there are myriad special services. The famous Caruso restaurant sits atop the hotel, affording wonderful views. Pros: Oceanfront location, fine restaurant. Cons: Not all rooms have views, on a busy road.
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