Bellevue Syrene

Bellevue Syrene Review

In the late 19th century, Empress Eugénie of France came here for a week and wound up staying three months. You'll understand why if you stay at this retreat magisterially placed on a bluff high over the Bay of Naples—just wait until you see the view from the glass-enclosed lobby. One of Italy's most legendary hotels, this connoisseur's favorite is a gentle fantasia of Venetian chandeliers, Louis-Phillipe rugs, and Belle Epoque murals (painted to make the King of Bavaria feel more at home back in the 1860s). Or was, until a recent renovation transformed a block of the guest rooms into visions right out of today's sizzling South Beach. The gilded chandeliers have been replaced by hip and modern ones, avant-garde artworks rub shoulder with trompe l'oeil frescoes, and plate-glass coffee tables now adorn the ducal salons. Don Giovanni, the main restaurant, has plate-glass panoramic vistas over the bay and a truly tempting menu (Li Galli Lobster with Melon Pearls, anyone?). Many, however, will want to head outdoors to enjoy elegant meals under the cliff-top wisteria pergola.