Naples

In the period before the Italian unification of 1860, Naples rivaled Paris as a brilliant and refined cultural capital, the ultimate destination for northern European travelers on their Grand Tour. Although a decade of farsighted city administration and a massive injection of European Union funds have put the city back on course, signs of urban malaise are still evident. Naples is a difficult place for the casual visitor to take a quick liking to: noise and air pollution levels are uncomfortably high, graffiti on urban trains and monuments are unsightly, unemployment protest marches and industrial disputes frequently disrupt public transportation and may even result in the temporary closure of major tourist attractions. Armed with the right attitude—"be prepared for the worst but hope for the best"—you will find that Napoli does not disappoint. Among other things, it's one of Italy's top città d'arte, with world-class museums and a staggering number of fine churches. The most important finds from Pompeii and Herculaneum are on display at the Museo Archeologico Nazionale—a cornucopia of sculpture, frescoes, and mosaics—and seeing them will add to the pleasure of trips to the ancient ruins. And Naples has a wonderful location: thanks to the backdrop of Vesuvius and the islands in the bay, it's one of those few cities in the world that is instantly recognizable.

In Naples you need a good sense of humor and a firm grip on your pocketbook and camera. Expect to do a lot of walking (take care crossing the chaotic streets); buses are crowded, and taxis often get held up in traffic. Use the funiculars or the new metro Line 1 to get up and down the hills, and take the quick—but erratic—metro Line 2 (the city's older subway system) when crossing the city between Piazza Garibaldi and Pozzuoli. For Pompeii, Herculaneum, and Sorrento, take the Circumvesuviana train line, while the Cumana line from Piazza Montesanto is best for the port of Pozzuoli, Baia, and Cumae.

The artecard (www.artecard.it) is a great way to save on public transportation and museums. A three-day card (EUR 25) includes free admission to two museums or archaeological sites, half-price admission to other attractions, and free public transportation—including return trips on fast craft across the bay. A seven-day card (EUR 28) gives free admission to museums and archaeological sites, but doesn't include a travel pass. You can purchase these cards at the airport or at the train station at Piazza Garibaldi. The Naples and Campi Flegrei card (EUR 13) gives access to two museums, half-price admission to other museums, and transport throughout the area. It's available at the airport, train station, tourist information offices, and many hotels.