Testing the Waters

Testing the Waters

Despite its miles of beautiful coast, Campania's beaches can be disappointing—most are small stretches of coarse sand. That doesn't mean you shouldn't pack your swimsuit, but leave any Caribbean-inspired expectations behind. The area around Positano has the best beach options: Spiaggia Grande (the main beach) is pleasant; a little farther west, Spiaggia di Fornillo gets better; and you can go by boat to the remote Spiaggia di Laurito for a leisurely day of swimming and lunching on seafood. On Ischia, the best sandy beach is at Citara, south of Forio, and on Capri you can take a dip in the waters around the famous Faraglioni rock formation. You may not be won over by the sand, but the water itself is spectacular, with infinite varieties of blue shimmering in the sun, turning transparent in the coves.