The vaulted ceilings of this popular trattoria on the main street in the upper town are marked with ancient graffiti, created by (patiently) holding candles to the stone overhead. Ornella herself is in the kitchen, turning out casoncelli (stuffed pasta) in butter and sage and platters of assorted roast meats. Ask her to suggest the perfect wine pairing for your meal. Three prix-fixe menus are available during the week, two on the weekend. Reservations are recommended.
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