The fashion and publishing crowd, as well as international bankers and businesspeople, favor this Tuscan/Ligurian restaurant. The emphasis is on fish; even the warm slice of pizza served while you study the menu has seafood on it. The specialty, gnocchi Da Giacomo, has a savory seafood-and-tomato sauce. Service is friendly and efficient; the wine list broad; and the most celebrated dish on the dessert cart is the bomba da giacomo, a savory mountain of chantilly cream, marsapone, and strawberries. With its tile floor and bank of fresh seafood, the place has a refined neighborhood-bistro style.