Fin-de-siècle furnishings, dark-wood paneling, and old-fashioned lamps still look much as they must have when this eatery opened 100 years ago. It's authentic Old Milan, and the menu is right in line, offering risotto, minestrone, and osso buco. Sample the riso al salto con rognone trifolato, which is fried rice with thinly sliced kidney. In winter, polenta is the best choice.
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