David and Catherine Gardner, expat Scots, have created this lively, brightly colored restaurant down the street from the church of Santa Croce. From its humble beginnings as a pizzeria, it has evolved into something more. It's a happy thing that pizza is still on the menu, but now it shares billing with sophisticated primi and secondi. The menu changes monthly, and has such treats as filetto di manzo alla Bernaise (filet mignon with light béarnaise sauce). Baldovino also serves pasta dishes and grilled meat until the wee hours.