Gardens Around Florence

Gardens Around Florence

Like any well-heeled Florentine, you, too, can get away from Florence's hustle and bustle by heading for the hills. Take a break from city sightseeing to enjoy the gardens and villas. Villa di Castello and Villa La Petraia, both northwest of Florence's historic center in Castello, can be explored in one trip. The Italian garden at Villa Gamberaia is an 8-km (5-mi) jaunt east of the center near Settignano. Plan for a full-day excursion, picnic lunch included, if visiting all three gardens. Though Villa Demidoff, originally a Medici country house, is in somewhat dilapidated shape, it's worth a trip to see Giambologna's Appenino.

Villa di Castello

A fortified residence in the Middle Ages, Villa di Castello was rebuilt in the 15th century by the Medici. The palace, isn't open to the public; the gardens, however, are the main attraction.

Though the original garden design has been altered somewhat over the centuries, the allegorical theme of animals, devised by Tribolo in 1537 to the delight of the Medici, is still evident. The artificial cave, Grotta degli Animali (Animal Grotto), displays sculpted animals by Giambologna and his assistants. An Ammannati sculpture, a figure of an old man representing the Appenines, is at the center of a pond on the terrace overlooking the garden. Two bronze sculptures by Ammannati, centerpieces of fountains studding the garden, can now be seen indoors in Villa La Petraia. Allow about 45 minutes to visit the garden; you can easily visit Villa La Petraia from here, making for a four-hour trip in total.

To get to Villa di Castello by car, head northwest from Florence on Via Reginaldo Giuliani (also known as Via Sestese) to Castello, about 6 km (4 mi) northwest of the city center in the direction of Sesto Fiorentino; follow signs to Villa di Castello. Or take Bus 28 from the city center and tell the driver you want to get off at Villa di Castello; from the stop, walk north about 1/2 km (¼ mi) up the tree-lined allée from the main road.

Via di Castello 47, Castello. 055/454791. EUR 2, includes entrance to Villa La Petraia. Garden Nov.-Feb., daily 8:15-4:30; Mar.-Oct., daily 9-7. Closed 2nd and 3rd Mon. of month; palace closed to public.

Villa La Petraia

The splendidly planted gardens of Villa La Petraia sit high above the Arno plain with a sweeping view of Florence. The villa was built around a medieval tower and reconstructed after it was purchased by the Medici sometime after 1530. Virtually the only trace of the Medici having lived here are the 17th-century courtyard frescoes.

The garden and the vast park behind the palace suggest a splendid contrast between formal and natural landscapes. Allow 60 to 90 minutes to explore the park and gardens, plus 30 minutes for the guided tour of the so-called museum, the villa interior. This property is best visited after the Villa di Castello.

To get here by car, follow directions to Villa di Castello, but take the right off Via Reginaldo Giuliani, following the sign for Villa La Petraia. You can walk from Villa di Castello to Villa La Petraia in about 15 minutes; turn left beyond the gate of Villa di Castello and continue straight along Via di Castello and the imposing Villa Corsini; take Via della Petraia uphill to the entrance.

Via della Petraia 40, Località Castello. 055/451208. EUR 2, includes entrance to Villa di Castello. Oct.-Mar., garden daily 8:15-4:30, villa tours daily at 9:15, 10, 10:45, 11:30, 12:10, 1:30, 2:20, 3, and 3:40; Apr., May, and Sept., garden daily 9-5, villa tours daily at 9:15, 10, 10:45, 11:30, 12:10, 1:30, 2:20, 3, 3:40, and 4:45; June-Aug., garden daily 9-7, villa tours daily at 9:15, 10, 10:45, 11:30, 12:10, 1:30, 2:20, 3, 3:40, 4:45, 5:35, and 6:35. Closed 2nd and 3rd Mon. of month.

Villa Gamberaia

Villa Gamberaia, near the village of Settignano on the eastern outskirts of Florence, was the rather modest 15th-century country home of Matteo di Domenico Gamberelli, the father of noted Renaissance sculptors Bernardo, Antonio, and Matteo Rossellino. In the early 1600s the villa eventually passed into the hands of the wealthy Capponi family. They spared no expense in rebuilding it and, more importantly, creating its garden, one of the finest near Florence. Studded with statues and fountains, the garden suffered damage during World War II but has been restored according to the original 17th-century design. This excursion takes about 1 1/2 hours, allowing 45 minutes to visit the garden. Parts of the villa are open by appointment

To get here by car, head east on Via Aretina, an extension of Via Gioberti, which is picked up at Piazza Beccaria; follow the sign to the turnoff to the north to Villa Gamberaia, about 8 km (5 mi) from the center. To go by bus, take Bus 10 to Settignano. From Settignano's main Piazza Tommaseo, walk east on Via di San Romano; the second lane on the right is Via del Rossellino, which leads southeast to the entrance of Villa Gamberaia. The walk from the piazza takes about 10 minutes.

Via del Rossellino 72, near Settignano. 055/697205. EUR 10. Garden Mon.-Sat. 9-6, Sun. 9-6.

Villa Demidoff

Francesco I de' Medici commissioned the multitalented Bernardo Buontalenti in 1568 to build a villa and a grandiose park to accompany it. The park, particularly the colossal and whimsical sculpture of the Fontana dell'Appenino (Fountain of the Appenines), executed by Giambologna in 1579-89, is worth the price of admission alone. Besides providing a nice excursion from Florence, the villa is an excellent picnic spot.

To get here by car, head north from Florence on the SR65 toward Pratolino and follow signs to the villa. Or take Bus 25 from Piazza San Marco and get off at Pratolino.

Località Pratolino, Vaglia. 055/409427. EUR 3, free Thurs. and Fri. Mar. and Oct., Sun. 10-7:30; Apr.-Sept., Thurs.-Sun. 10-7:30.