Florence Restaurants

Florence's popularity with tourists means that, unfortunately, there's a higher percentage of mediocre restaurants here than you'll find in most Italian towns (Venice, perhaps, might win the prize). Some restaurant owners cut corners and let standards slip, knowing that a customer today is unlikely to return tomorrow, regardless of the quality of the meal. So, if you're looking to eat well, it pays to do some research, starting with the recommendations here. Dining hours start at around 1 for lunch and 8 for dinner. Many of Florence's restaurants are small, so reservations are a must. You can sample such specialties as creamy fegatini (a chicken-liver spread) and ribollita (minestrone thickened with bread and beans and swirled with extra-virgin olive oil) in a bustling, convivial trattoria, where you share long wooden tables set with paper place mats, or in an upscale ristorante with linen tablecloths and napkins.

Those with a sense of culinary adventure should not miss the tripe sandwich, served from stands throughout town. This Florentine favorite comes with a fragrant salsa verde (green sauce) or a piquant red hot sauce—or both. Follow the Florentines' lead and take a break at an enoteca (wine bar) during the day and discover some excellent Chiantis and Super Tuscans from small producers who rarely export.

International cuisine in Florence is a hit-or-miss affair. Although numerous Asian restaurants have sprung up since the 1990s, only a select few are worth a visit. Still, if you need a break from Italian, some relief is available.

Pizzas in Florence can't compete with their counterparts in Rome or Naples, but you can sample a few good approximations.

Cafés in Italy serve not only coffee concoctions and pastries but also sweets, drinks, and panini, and some have hot pasta and lunch dishes. They usually open from early in the morning to late at night, and are often closed Sunday.

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  • 1. Cibrèo Ristorante

    $$$$ | Santa Croce

    This upscale trattoria serves sumptuous options like the creamy crostini di fegatini (with a savory chicken-liver spread) and melt-in-your-mouth desserts. Many Florentines hail this as the city's best restaurant, and justifiably so—chef-owner Fabio Picchi knows Tuscan food better than anyone, and it shows.

    Via A. del Verrocchio 8/r, Florence, Tuscany, 50122, Italy
    055-234–1100

    Known For

    • Authentic Tuscan food
    • No written menu
    • Multilingual staff

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Reservations essential, Closed Sun. and Mon.
  • 2. da Nerbone

    $

    This tavola calda (cafeteria) in the middle of the covered Mercato Centrale has been serving Florentines since 1872. Tasty primi and secondi are always available, as are bollitos (boiled beef sandwiches), but the cognoscenti come for the panino con il lampredotto (tripe sandwich)—best when it's prepared bagnato (with the bread quickly dipped in the tripe cooking liquid) and served slathered with the green and/or spicier red sauce.

    Mercato San Lorenzo, Florence, Tuscany, 50123, Italy

    Known For

    • Tripe sandwich
    • Frequented by locals (and everyone else)
    • Favorite dishes sell out fast

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. No dinner
  • 3. da Sergio

    $ | San Lorenzo

    This restaurant just across the way from the Basilica of San Lorenzo and run by the Gozzi family since 1915 serves food that's as delicious as it is affordable. The menu short menu changes daily, though the lombatina alla griglia (grilled veal T-bone steak) is almost always available, and meat eaters should not miss it. Pastas are equally terrific. Dessert, in true Florentine fashion, is usually limited to biscotti with vin santo. Reservations are absolutely essential—even in low season.

    Piazza San Lorenzo 8/r, Florence, Tuscany, 50100, Italy
    055-281941

    Known For

    • Local favorite
    • Ever-changing menu
    • Terrific pastas

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. No dinner Mon.–Thurs., Reservations are essential.
  • 4. Il Santo Bevitore

    $ | Santo Spirito

    Florentines and other lovers of good food flock to "The Holy Drinker" for tasty, well-priced dishes. Unpretentious white walls, dark wood furniture, and paper place mats provide the simple decor; start with the exceptional verdure sott'olio (vegetables in oil) or the terrina di fegatini (a creamy chicken-liver spread) before sampling any of the divine pastas. Count yourself lucky if the extraordinary potato gratin, served in compact triangular wedges, is on the menu. The extensive wine list is well priced.

    Via Santo Spirito 64/66r, Florence, Tuscany, 50125, Italy
    055-211264

    Known For

    • Pasta
    • Delicious potato gratin
    • Friendly waitstaff

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No lunch Sun.
  • 5. La Casalinga

    $ | Santo Spirito

    Casalinga means "housewife," and this place, which has been around since 1963, has the nostalgic charm of a midcentury kitchen with Tuscan comfort food to match. If you eat ribollita anywhere in Florence, eat it here—it couldn't be more authentic. Paintings clutter the semi-paneled walls, tables are set close together, and the place is usually jammed. The menu is long, portions are plentiful, and service is prompt and friendly. For dessert, the lemon sorbet perfectly caps off the meal.

    Via Michelozzi 9/r, Florence, Tuscany, 50125, Italy
    055-218624

    Known For

    • Ribollita
    • Liver, Venetian style
    • Often packed

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun., 1 wk at Christmas, and 3 wks in Aug.
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  • 6. La Sostanza

    $$ | Lungarno North

    Since opening its doors in 1869, this trattoria has been serving top-notch, unpretentious food to Florentines who like their bistecca very large and, of course, very rare, as that's the only way to eat it. The tartino di carciofi (artichoke tart) and the pollo al burro (chicken with butter) are signature dishes.

    Via del Porcellana 25/r, Florence, Tuscany, 50100, Italy
    055-212691

    Known For

    • Tuscan classics
    • Delicious desserts (especially the semifreddo)
    • No-frills, 19th-century decor

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun., Reservations essential
  • 7. Mangiafoco

    $$ | Santa Maria Novella

    On a romantic medieval side street in the heart of the centro storico, this small restaurant serves Tuscan classics that reflect both the whims of the chef and what's in season. The menu features creative salads and pasta, meat, and truffle dishes, as well as taglieri (mixed meat and cheese plates) that are often served with jams made from Chianti, vin santo, or balsamic vinegar. The long wine list has many offerings by the glass, and the bread and desserts are made in house. This is also a great place to drop in for a glass of wine and perch on the steps to watch the world go by.

    Borgo Santi Apostoli 26/r, Florence, Tuscany, 50100, Italy
    055-265–8170

    Known For

    • Phenomenal wines by the glass or the bottle
    • House-made breads and desserts
    • Great service

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Wed.
  • 8. Mario

    $ | San Lorenzo

    Florentines flock to this narrow, family-run trattoria near San Lorenzo to feast on Tuscan favorites served at simple tables under a wooden ceiling dating from 1536. A distinct cafeteria feel and genuine Florentine hospitality prevail: you'll be seated wherever there's room, which often means with strangers. Yes, there's a bit of extra oil in most dishes, which imparts calories as well as taste, but aren't you on vacation in Italy? Worth the caloric splurge is riso al ragù (rice with ground beef and tomatoes).

    Via Rosina 2/r, Florence, Tuscany, 50123, Italy
    055-218550

    Known For

    • Grilled meats
    • Roasted potatoes
    • Festive atmosphere

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. and Aug. No dinner, Reservations not accepted
  • 9. Taverna del Bronzino

    $$ | San Marco

    Located in the former studio of Santi di Tito, a student of Bronzino's, Taverna has a simple, formal decor, with white tablecloths and place settings. The classic, elegantly presented Tuscan food is superb, and the solid, affordable wine list rounds out the menu—especially because Stefano, the sommelier, really knows his stuff. Desserts shine at this place, so remember to save room, and conclude with a limoncello or mirtillo postprandial drink. Both are made in-house, and provide a perfect conclusion to the meal. Outstanding service makes a meal here heavenly. Reservations are advised, especially for eating at the wine cellar's only table.

    Via delle Ruote 25/r, Florence, Tuscany, 50129, Italy
    055-495220

    Known For

    • <PRO>creative menu</PRO>
    • <PRO>lots of fish</PRO>
    • <PRO>wonderful sommelier</PRO>

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. No lunch Fri. or Sat., Credit cards accepted, Reservations essential
  • 10. Trattoria Sostanza (il Troia)

    $$ | Santa Maria Novella

    Since opening its doors in 1869, this trattoria has been serving top-notch, unpretentious food to Florentines who like their bistecca fiorentina very large and very rare. Along with fine Tuscan classics, they have two signature dishes: the tortino di carciofi (artichoke tart) and the pollo al burro (chicken with butter). Leave room for dessert, as their torta alla Meringa (a semi-frozen dessert flecked with chocolate and topped with meringue) is scrumptious. Reservations are absolutely essential.

    Via della Porcellana 25, Florence, Tuscany, 50100, Italy
    055-212691

    Known For

    • <PRO>Tuscan classics</PRO>
    • <PRO>delicious desserts</PRO>
    • <PRO>no-frills decor</PRO>

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No credit cards, Reservations essential
  • 11. Alla Vecchia Bettola

    $ | Oltrarno

    The name doesn't exactly mean "old dive," but it comes pretty close. The recipes here come from "wise grandmothers" and celebrate Tuscan food in its glorious simplicity—prosciutto is sliced with a knife, grilled meats are tender, service is friendly, and the wine list is well priced and good. This lively trattoria has been around only since 1979, but it feels as if it's been much longer.

    Viale Vasco Pratolini, Florence, Tuscany, 50124, Italy
    055-224158

    Known For

    • Grilled meats
    • Firmly Tuscan menu
    • Just outside the centro storico but worth the taxi ride

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. and Mon.
  • 12. Buca Lapi

    $$$$ | Santa Maria Novella

    The Antinori family started selling wine from their palace's basement in the 15th century and 600 years later, this buca (hole) is a lively, subterranean restaurant filled with Florentine aristocrats chowing down on what might be the best (and most expensive) bistecca fiorentina in town. The classical Tuscan menu has the usual suspects: crostino di cavolo nero (black cabbage on toasted garlic bread), along with ribollita and pappa al pomodoro. You might want to cut directly to the chase, however, and order the bistecca, an immense slab of Chianina beef impeccably grilled on the outside, just barely warmed on the inside. (If you're not into rare meat, order something else from the grill.) Roast potatoes and cannellini beans make perfect accompaniments.

    Via del Trebbio 1, Florence, Tuscany, Italy
    055-213768

    Known For

    • <PRO>gargantuan bistecca fiorentina</PRO>
    • <PRO>adherence to Tuscan classics</PRO>
    • <PRO>pet-friendy</PRO>

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun., Reservations essential
  • 13. Cantinetta Antinori

    $$$ | Santa Maria Novella

    After a morning of shopping on Via Tornabuoni, stop for lunch in this 15th-century palazzo, a place to see and be seen as well as to dine. The panache of the clientele is matched by that of the food, with dishes such as tramezzino con pane di campagna al tartufo (bread served with country pâté and truffles) and insalata di gamberoni e gamberetti con carciofi freschi (crayfish and prawn salad with shaved raw artichokes).

    Piazza Antinori 3, Florence, Tuscany, 50123, Italy
    055-292234

    Known For

    • Chic clientele
    • Most ingredients come from the family farm
    • Outdoor seating in a 15th-century courtyard

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun., 20 days in Aug., and Dec. 25–Jan. 6
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  • 14. Cibrèo Trattoria

    $ | Santa Croce

    This intimate trattoria, known to locals as Cibreino, shares its name and its kitchen with the famed Florentine restaurant but has a shorter, less-expensive menu. Save room for dessert, as the pastry chef has a deft hand with chocolate tarts. To avoid sometimes agonizingly long waits, come early (7 pm) or late (after 9:30).

    Via dei Macci 122/r, Florence, Tuscany, 50122, Italy
    055-234–1100

    Known For

    • Excellent meal at a moderate price
    • Clever riffs on classic dishes
    • Need to come early or late to avoid a wait

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun., Mon., and July 25–Sept. 5, Reservations not accepted
  • 15. da Rocco

    $ | Santa Croce

    At one of Florence's biggest markets, you can grab lunch to go, or you can cram into one of the booths and pour from the straw-cloaked flask (wine here is da consumo, which means they charge you for how much you drink). Food is abundant, Tuscan, and fast; locals pack in. The ample menu changes daily (nine secondi are the norm), and the prices are great.

    Piazza Ghiberti, Florence, Tuscany, 50122, Italy
    339-838–4555

    Known For

    • Tasty food at rock-bottom prices
    • Ever-changing menu
    • Takeout

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. No dinner, Reservations not accepted
  • 16. L'Osteria dell'Enoteca

    $$ | Santo Spirito

    This innovative, charming place serves up remarkable food. Anyone looking for sublime bistecca fiorentina should stop here: it serves the cut from different places on the planet, so you can sample and decide. The wine list, as befits the love child of a fine enoteca, is divine.

    Via Romana 70/r, Florence, Tuscany, 55100, Italy
    055-228–6018

    Known For

    • Fantastic primi
    • Secondi with dash and fantasy
    • Beyond gracious service

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Tues. No lunch Mon., Wed., and Thurs.
  • 17. La Mescita

    $

    Come early (or late) to grab a seat at this tiny spot frequented by Florentine university students and businesspeople, who come to enjoy the day's primi (the lasagna is terrific), perhaps followed by the polpettone (meat loaf) and tomato sauce. Though seats are cramped, and the wine is no great shakes, the service is friendly, and the food hits the spot.

    Via degli Alfani 70/r, Florence, Tuscany, 50121, Italy
    347-795–1604

    Known For

    • Its longevity (it's been around since the 1920s)
    • Delicious pastas at rock-bottom prices
    • Jovial staff

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Wed. No dinner
  • 18. Le Mossacce

    $ | Duomo

    Come to this tiny, cramped, and boisterous place for hearty, stick-to-your-ribs Florentine dishes such as ribollita (Tuscan bread soup). Seating is communal, with diners sharing big, straw-covered flasks of wine; service is prompt and efficient; and two nimble cooks with impeccable timing staff the small kitchen.

    Via del Proconsolo 55/r, Florence, Tuscany, 50100, Italy
    055-294361

    Known For

    • Authentic home cooking
    • Frequented by locals
    • Generous portions

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sat., Reservations not accepted
  • 19. Osteria Antica Mescita San Niccolò

    $ | San Niccolò

    Always crowded—but always good and inexpensive—this osteria is next to the church of San Niccolò, and, if you sit in the lower part, you'll be in what was once a chapel dating from the 11th century. The subtle but dramatic background nicely complements the food, which is simple Tuscan at its best. The pollo con limone is tasty pieces of chicken in a lemon-scented broth. In winter, try the spezzatino di cinghiale con aromi (wild boar stew with herbs). Reservations are advised.

    Via San Niccolò 60/r, Florence, Tuscany, 50125, Italy
    055-234–2836

    Known For

    • Delicious soup
    • Great, simple salads
    • Outdoor seating in a small, lovely square
  • 20. Osteria delle Belle Donne

    $$ | Santa Maria Novella

    Down the street from the church of Santa Maria Novella, this gaily decorated spot, always festooned with some sort of creative decoration (ropes of garlic and other vegetables have figured in the past) has an ever-changing menu and stellar service. The list of Tuscan standards is shaken up with alternatives such as sedani con bacon, verza, e uova (thick noodles sauced with bacon, cabbage, and egg); when avocados are ripe, they're on the menu, too, either with cold boiled shrimp or expertly grilled chicken breast. If you want to eat alfresco, request a table outside when booking—and remember to save room for dessert.

    Via delle Belle Donne 16/r, Florence, Tuscany, 50123, Italy
    055-238–2609

    Known For

    • Seasonal ingredients
    • Many dishes not typical of Tuscany
    • Dessert

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