This sleek eatery has been in the hands of the Costa family since 1978; starting out as a humble trattoria, it has evolved into something entirely different, with terra-cotta floors and sponged walls the color of saffron providing the backdrop for truly exceptional fare. Bolognesi swarm here, and with good reason. The menu offers Emilian classics such as tortellini in brodo and other meat-based secondi, all executed with a deft turn. But it seems that most
diners go the fish route. Start with the spiedino di gamberi (shrimp kebabs), rolled in toasted hazelnuts and mustard, and served over a bed of delicately shaved raw artichokes before choosing between the tagliata di rana pescatrice in crosta di pane e bacon (thinly sliced monkfish wrapped in bacon and lightly breaded) or the lobster. An impeccable wine list completes the picture.