From the lofty top of Furore, 944 steps (count 'em!) lead down to Marina di Furore, nearly hidden away in a fjord. Set on the coast, this enchanting hamlet—perhaps 10 houses?—beckons to most travelers as their SITA buses pass over it on a towering viaduct that in July is the site of the Mediterranean Cup High-Diving Championship. The locale's name derives from the "furor" of stormy water that once rushed down the Torrente Schiato here, now a mere trickle. Adorning the gorge is a tchotchke of a fishermen's village (with some houses renovated by Anna Magnani during the filming of Roberto Rossellini's L'Amore in 1948); these buildings and the adjoining paper mill were abandoned when the tiny harbor closed. Today, the sleepy hamlet only comes to life during the summer months when the colorful houses are complemented by sunbathers who follow the narrow pathway down to the secluded beach. From the beach, the sentiero della Volpe Pescatrice ("the fox-fish's path") and the sentiero
dei Pipistrelli Impazziti ("the mad bats' path") climb up some 3,000 steps and were built to portage goods from the harbor to the town of Furore. The hard walk up takes a couple of hours, as you climb from sea to sky. To see any of this by car, you have to pay to park in the layby some 450 yards away on the Amalfi side of the gorge, just before the gas station. Unless you're in pretty good shape, it's better to boat to the beach and just rubberneck.