Sights Overview

With a thrill every 100 yards and a photo-op at nearly every bend, the Costiera Amalfitana is about the most satisfying 30 miles of coastline to be found in tourist Europe. Serpentining its way south of Sorrento, its Amalfi Drive -- the "road of a 1,001 turns" -- threads a string of towns that glisten like pearls in a necklace. Locals dare you to conjure up places that are as lovely as Positano, Amalfi, and Ravello, even in your imagination.

Generally speaking, everyone "does" the Amalfi Coast by arriving from Naples in Sorrento (via the famous Circumvesuviana train) and then working their way down the coast -- the Costiera Amalfitana, to use the official name -- using the SITA buses that ply the unforgettable Amalfi Drive, from Sorrento's train station to Amalfi's waterfront piazza, 22 times daily. Beginning in Sorrento, Statale (State Highway) 145 -- nicknamed the Strada del Nastro Azzurro (Blue Ribbon) -- heads over the Sorrentine peninsula to the coast where it becomes the steep, winding, and ultrascenic Statale 163, nicknamed the Via Smeraldo (Emerald Road) -- the actual Amalfi Drive.

When driving round-trip, many choose to go only in one direction on the seaside road, going the other way via the highway that threads the lofty mountains or by train from Salerno, or by boat from Amalfi or Positano. But unless you are prepared to pay exorbitant parking fees (that is, if you can even find a parking space), it is better to leave the helm to drivers and bus power, as the endless hairpin turns and bottlenecks of the Amalfi Drive can test the most professional motorist.

Note that SITA buses fill up in the summer months, especially in the mornings. To pack in a full day of sightseeing, crowds jam buses from 8 to 10 AM -- cool your heels on a later bus and you may actually wind up getting a seat. Positano and Amalfi have their own orange-hue minibuses that thread their townships (and also head up into the hills).

An attractive alternative in the summer months is the Metro del Mare, a ferry service that connects Naples with Positano and Amalfi three times daily; there's also a bevy of shuttle boats that connect Positano and Amalfi with other coastal spots, ranging from Conca dei Marini (Emerald Grotto) to Praiano to Capri. Large harbors, like the one at Amalfi, are berthed with private boat companies that can chauffeur you to any spot along the coast. For full transportation details, see the Essentials section at the end of this chapter.