Even though o' capurale ("the corporal") himself no longer runs the place, his eponymous restaurant is still a great find in the crowded center of Positano. Positano is about easy-come elegance, and this dining spot sums it all up. Graced with a coved ceiling awash with colorful Fauvist-style frescoes, the dining room is filled with happy, stylish diners, literally unwinding before your eyes, thanks to the delicious, serious food (veal cutlet in white wine, fresh pasta with mussels and pumpkin, or rockfish all'acqua pazza with a few tomatoes and garlic are favorites) and lovely setting. Walk downstairs to wind up on a backstreet that has a charmingly framed view of the beach at tables set for alfresco dining. One luncheon here and you'll forget about all those ugly headlines back home.
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