$, Paestum
Fodor's Review:
This working farm-with-a-difference is about 3 km (2 mi) from the temples and consists of a cluster of 19th-century baronial buildings. The Baronessa Cecilia herself presides over all, with sons Ettore and Massimino handling visitor logistics. Top priority once you have settled in to your refurbished rooms is to make friends with all the farm dogs, who will then be your faithful companions on country walks past apricot orchards and fields of artichokes. Opt for half-board terms as most of the food is home-produced, including the rich buffalo stew, fresher-than-ever mozzarella, and more elaborate dishes brought with relentless regularity from the kitchens; you'll be seated, as is the tradition, with other guests around a banquet table. For those without transport, transfers can be arranged from Paestum main-line station; bicycles may be borrowed on a first-come, first-served basis.
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