Past a bevy of resort boutiques, amble down Via dei Mulini to find the prettiest garden in Positano -- the 18th-century courtyard of the Palazzo Murat, named for Joachim Murat, who sensibly chose the palazzo as his summer residence. This was where Murat, designated by his brother-in-law Napoléon as King of Naples in 1808, came to forget the demands of power and led the simple life. Simple may not be the right word -- this "palace" looks like it was airlifted in from the heart of Naples and seems all the grander next to the adjacent low-lying houses and harbor beach. Built in the early 18th century, the palazzo is replete with soaring limestone walls, shell sconces, and wrought-iron balconies (in summer, adorned with waterfalls of incredible bougainvillea flowers). Since Murat was one of Europe's leading style setters, Neapolitan Baroque suited him perfectly, and he is unlikely to have filed complaints about the views from the palazzo (now a hotel).
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